Øst Telemark mans bunad (Gråtrøye)
This
is Torgeir (to the left) and Hans Kristian in Øst Telemark mans bunad.
Hans Kristian is Mettes husband. The bunad is
made by Mette. You can visit Hans Kristian on his homepage here. |
The back of the Gråtrøye-bunad
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East Telemark ‘Gråtrøye’ Bunad
The name of this bunad comes from its jacket, and this is the
costume we now associate with this region of Norway. The
‘Gråtrøye’ bunad with a cropped jacket was worn from around
1830 up until the period around the 1870s and 80s, and so was
worn at the same time and in the same region as both the
‘Raudtrøye’ and ‘Beltestakk’ bunads. It is a very elegant man’s
bunad, and it is said that there could have been as many as 16
silver buttons on the waistcoat, 20 on the jacket and 27 on the
knee breeches. The most distinctive feature of this bunad is the jacket, which is made in white or green woollen material and
decorated with woollen broadcloth using the appliqué method.
The shirt is made of cotton broadcloth or white linen. The collar and cuffs
have embroideries, either in white or colored yarn. A silk scarf can be used around the neck. The shirt is fastened at the neck with a brooch or buttons on a
chain.
Knitted or felt hat is to be used.. Knitted hats were originally the most
common. They were quite popular at the turn of the century when Norway was swept by a wave of
nationalism. But all kinds of hats were used with this bunad: black fur hats, light bowlers, wide brimmed hats and
now, the most popular, the old hat with visors.
Either knee breeches or full-length trousers can now be worn with this
bunad, even though knee breeches were usually worn
previously.
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